Hi John, I desperately need your help with this serious “blonde to brunette” case! My client has been blonde for almost 10 years (she’s now a level 10 which is brassy on the midshaft) and now would like to go to level 7. Can you please help me with a formula for creating beautiful, elegant, rich brown level 7 neutral cool that is not reddish or coopery? She’s got brown eyes and light skin and neutral cool colors work really well for her. Also she would prefer to use Colorance as it’s much gentler than Topchic and her hair is quite damaged. Thank you a million!! Marina. by John C. Simpson

John C. Simpson is an NAHA award-winning, international platform artist and quintessential educator who encourages all stylists to reclaim their passion for their craft and conquer new design fundamentals of hair color, cutting and finishing techniques. John’s mantra to always remember that “life is not a dress rehearsal, live it, love it and create it” is spreading across the globe while he continues to shine as a new icon in the beauty industry.

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Hi John, I desperately need your help with this serious “blonde to brunette” case! My client has been blonde for almost 10 years (she’s now a level 10 which is brassy on the midshaft) and now would like to go to level 7. Can you please help me with a formula for creating beautiful, elegant, rich brown level 7 neutral cool that is not reddish or coopery? She’s got brown eyes and light skin and neutral cool colors work really well for her. Also she would prefer to use Colorance as it’s much gentler than Topchic and her hair is quite damaged. Thank you a million!! Marina.

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Hey Marina,

Sorry for the delay, though if this still helps, lets chat.
To utilize colorance would fade way to quick , since it only lives in the cuticle. My advice would be to first apply Pre Pigmentation Gold mixed 60mls water and 20mls Gold. Make sure saturated but not too wet with color. Then with Goldwell Topchic ( this is not damaging, remember that the alkalinity is quite low and we need the alkalinty "drive" of the Topchic.) My favorite neutral level 7's are 40mls 10 vol. 25mls 7BG 10 mls 7MB 5 mls GG MIX. Later after processing , finish with a 10 min. overlay of Colorance 40mls Colorance Lotion 10mls 10BS 10mls 7BG.
This will not be red, and have enough luster to "flip" this blonde to brunette.
Continue re touching in the future, and utilizing colorance to balance. Though maybe every 3rd visit, re introduce maybe a Topchic Glaze or Colorance Mild Alkaline.
Happy Coloring
j